Bonnell’s spin on southwestern cuisine has made them a solid fine dining option in Fort Worth since 2001. What drew me to the restaurant was learning that Bonnell’s uses regional and local ingredients in his cooking. Native and seasonal ingredients improve the flavors of dishes, especially in the hands of a skilled chef like Jon Bonnell. Gourmet magazine even included Bonnell’s in its list of Best Farm to Table restaurants.
The Vibe
A kitschy cowboy boot birdhouse welcomes you upon entering Bonnell’s. The kitsch ends there though. Upon entering you’ll find a classic fine dining atmosphere. The European maitre’d (how very old school) efficiently greets and guides you through the expansive dining room to your table. I was surprised by how open the dining room was – I pictured a space that was more intimate and dark. Wood partitions separate different dining nooks within the room and Texan touches dot the elegant space.
The crowd seemed to consist mostly of the well-to-do country club set which contributes to the old school feel I get from the place. Not usually my scene, but I always enjoy being in a restaurant that’s full of happy, wine guzzling patrons (regardless of their tax bracket). The restaurant seems to have cultivated a loyal bunch of regulars with Chef Bonnell stopping to chat and laugh with some of the tables.
The Food
Oysters Texasfeller ($10) seemed too good to pass up as an appetizer. Fresh gulf Oysters fried to golden perfection give the traditional Oysters Rockefeller a Texas twist. Cilantro and tasso ham add a southwestern flavor to the spinach that is traditionally used in this dish. Served in the half shell on top of a bed of rock salt they make for an impressive presentation. The oysters were magnificent, oh and did I mention the hollaindaise that tops it all off. I was left wanting more of this decadent delight. Next time I will have to try the Elk mini tacos because I’ve never had elk and the toppers of green chili cheese grits, queso fresco, and pico de gallo seem like an irresistible combination of flavors.
I eagerly anticipated feasting on my grass-fed rib eye. Chef Bonnell only uses certified Texas organic beef, and this rib eye was described as being raised on lush grasses. I was interested to see if there was any difference in the taste compared to a regular corn fed rib eye and as the daughter of a butcher I’ve grown up eating more than my fair share of beef.
When my plate arrived my rib eye looked appropriately crusty and caramelized with precisely crossed grill marks. Topping off the rib eye was a generous dollop of compound butter at the perfect melting point for slathering across the steak. The texture of the perfectly prepared meat was less marbled and more tender than a regular rib eye. The flavor seemed concentrated and the wild game reduction sauce that the steak rested upon complemented each bite with an extra layer of richness. Crisp vegetables and chunky mashed potatoes completed my meal.
I managed to steal a few bites of my husbands Bandera quail with jalapeno cream ($26). Tender and juicy with subtle flavors the quail benefited from the spicy touch of jalapeno cream. The delicate creamed spinach and mashed potatoes paired well with the quail.
Service
Our waitress was pleasant and familiar with the menu and specials. Overall, the service was attentive yet unobtrusive which seems to be a rare commodity but is something I really appreciate.
Overall
The flawless execution of the dishes alone make Bonnell’s worth the price. However, Bonnell’s is more than just a fancy restaurant. They provide diners a unique opportunity to taste locally grown, Texas-style gourmet. This would be a great place to celebrate an anniversary or have a Holiday dinner with someone special.
Eat This
Yes, if you can get over the sticker shock and enjoy your meal. Five out of Five locally raised, grass fed panthers!!
I Eat This
Oysters Texasfeller to start, any cut of grass fed beef as the entree.
Price
Appetizers $9 – $18
Soups/Salads $7 – $16
Entrees $17 – $43
Desert $6 – $14
Reservations Recommended
Lunch 11:30AM – 2:30PM Tuesday through Friday
Dinner 5:30PM – 9:00PM Tuesday through Saturday
Check here for Holiday Hours
Bonnell’s Fine Texas Cuisine
4259 Bryant Irvin Road
Fort Worth, Texas 76109
817.738.5489
{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }
Lovely. Great site.
your link to Grace actually leads to Bonnell’s