I was recently invited to a media dinner at Lambert’s, on Fort Worth’s Westside bordering downtown. Many Fort Worth and Dallas food and freelance writers attended the event – you are basically given a sampling of the menu and drinks (for free – nice). This review is a recap of the event. For the record, I ate at Lambert’s shortly after it opened (on my own dime) and did not review it because I felt there were some jitters that still had to be worked out. I’ve also been there for cocktails a time or two. Now before you start shaking your fist at me I must explain my position on freebies – I’ll take them. Last I checked food blogging in The Fort doesn’t pay too well, so I will shamelessly accept any perks that happen to come my way.
The Vibe
Mid-century modern touches accent the Texan decor at Lambert’s giving it an urban cowboy vibe. I love the arty and kitschy trio of wild boar heads that dominate the bar. Saddles hang from the ceilings in the dining room and musical acts grace the stage on the weekends. Ginny Mac was providing some great entertainment the night of the media dinner – I have to give major props to any girl who can expertly wield an accordion. Aaron Williams (General Manager) was responsible for the drink pairings.
The Food
To start the event off, we were given strawberry basil martinis and a selection of Charcuterie, Wild Boar Ribs, and Fried Oysters. The Charcuterie Platter is on the Appetizer menu and had house cured meats, house made lamb sausage, artisinal cheeses and grilled breads. The lamb sausage was my favorite with a familiar yet unique flavor. The Wild Boar Ribs were perfectly blackened on the outside and nice and tender on the inside. Sure I looked unladylike tearing into them but who cares when something is so tasty. After this light grazing we sat down for the main event – a 6 course tasting dinner.
Lou Lambert is trying to stay “true to Texas roots” with the food at Lambert’s. This is evident in all the smoked and grilled meats, appealing to our inner cowboy. However, each dish is given a modern touch that adds a shot of urban flair. The name says it all and heck if you don’t like steak or seafood there’s always the whiskey.
The first course was a Fried Green Tomato. I was excited because I’ve never had one. Now that I have, I must advise you to order this treat anytime you find it on a menu. The fried outer layer was crispy while the tomato itself stayed firm. It was topped with soy, alfalfa, and sunflower microgreens and served alongside a rich crab remoulade salad. A bright citrusy ‘07 Trefethen Dry Riesling accompanied.
The second dish of Grilled Bacon Wrapped Quail was a standout. The delicate quail meat had a deep smoky flavor and the bacon added a sweet carmelization to the dish, wow. Sweet corn puree was the yin to to the yang of the poblano and cheddar pudding. A cucumber celery root salad gave a refreshing bite to the dish. A deep blackberry ‘05 Lapis Luna “Romanza” Zinfandel held it’s own against the smoky flavors.
Oak Smoke Braised Beef Short Ribs with garlic mashed potatoes followed. The Short Ribs have a mirepoix (onions, carrots, and celery) dry rub along with a hint of French roast coffee. The deeply smoked ribs were crispy and carmelized to the point of being almost blackened (in a good way!). The Short Ribs were perfectly tender and practically falling off the bone. The simply titled garlic mashed potatoes in no way indicate their greatness. On first bite I found that these were the fluffiest mashed potatoes I’ve ever had, truly. There’s air in those babies – they are as light as an angel’s pillow. I could ask for no better pairing for the ribs than a Rahr Winter Warmer.
The fourth course was a Smoked and Grilled Center Cut Pork Chop with Green Chile Grits. This ain’t your momma’s pork chop. Lambert’s gives their pork chop a special citrus brine and a “jezebel” sauce which all sounds kind of kinky. The result is a tender and flavorful pork chop that retains it’s moistness. The apple, blue cheese, and walnut slaw that topped the pork chop added a nice texture and a splash of brightness. I enjoyed the kick of the The Green Chili Grits, and if that isn’t comfort food I don’t know what is. An ‘04 Au Bon Climat “Hidegard” White blend of pinot gris/blanc played nicely with the subtle citrus flavors of the Pork Chop.
The last meat course was definitely worth making some room for, Kobe Beef Tenderloin. I learned that Kobe is one pampered piece of beef and it was pampering me. A little cholula butter expertly finished off the melt-in-your-mouth Kobe beef. The cholula butter gives a sly wink to the flavors in the red chili cheese enchiladas that accompanied the Kobe (What? Enchiladas too?). The sauce of the enchiladas reminded me of the enchilada sauce I had growing up, slightly chunky and made with dried ancho chiles (not the watered down tex-mexy style). You need nothing less than a big red Cabernet for Kobe. So Lambert’s provided an ‘04 Rodney Strong “Alexander Crown” Cabernet Sauvignon that had the cajones to stand up to the Kobe.
After this point I was pretty much banging on the table begging for mercy. Then appeared a blackberry FRIED pie – who can say no to that? Fried pies are as country as it gets but the honey buttermilk ice cream that came with it was something new and something I want more of (like a bathtub full). The fried pie was everything you could ask for in a desert, so indulgent that you don’t give a worry about your waistline. A Singleton 12 year chilled Scotch totally took this over the top and I like it there!
Overall
While this is not the typical dining experience this is a slice of what you can expect when eating at Lambert’s (except for the free part – sorry). As much as I was impressed by the food what impressed me more is the sentiment that Lou Lambert puts behind the food. His take on slow smoking and grilling meats pays tremendous tribute to his ranching roots and the culinary heritage of Texas cuisine. If you’re looking for an intimate evening Lambert’s is the spot. Live music on the weekends adds a nice element. The lounge area is great for snacking on ribs and Rahr or class it up with a cocktail and conversation. I plan on keeping Lambert’s honest by returning soon (on my own dime) just to make sure everything is still memorable and delicious.
Eat This
Yes! I love the slow smoked goodness of all the food.
I Eat This
Oak Smoked Braised Beef Short Ribs, Quail (when available), and Mashed Potatoes
Hours
Cocktails Monday – Saturday 4PM – close
Dinner Monday – Thursday 5PM – 10PM
Dinner Friday – Saturday 5PM – 11PM
Brunch Sunday 11AM- 3PM
Lambert’s Steak, Seafood, and Whiskey
2731 White Settlement Road
Fort Worth 76107
{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }
I think that the food is good as well, but the service was some of the worst. I have never been treated so poorly as I was on my last visit. From waiters avoiding eye contact so that they wouldn’t have to serve you to complete avoidence. It was crazy. At the time that we entered for lunch there was one other table. We counted three servers all completely avoiding us. I finally said “Excuse me” three times before I had a finger waved at me to let me know that she heard me but that it would be a minute. At that point all we wanted was a menu. It went down hill from there.
I was sad to have such poor service, because it is right down the street from our home.
That’s too bad that the service detracted from the food during your experience. My only suggestion is to give it another shot and let the management know if the service is lacking.
Had a very nice meal at Lambert’s this past weekend. Food was excellent, as was the service. My wife had the rib-eye and I had the smoked prime rib. Both were delicious.
Thanks for the review.