UPDATE: Aventino closed January 15, 2010. We wish the Paez Family the best.
The words Cucina, Enoteca, and Salumeria usually are reserved for spots tucked away in the beautiful rolling hills of Tuscany or the moped mobbed streets of Milan. Fort Worth may not contain all the same charms of Italy, but we can be treated to its wonderful cuisine as interpreted by Chef Derrick Paez at Aventino. The newly revamped Aventino provides Fort Worth a modern take on Italian cuisine and a cool, chic atmosphere in which to enjoy it.
The Vibe
The decor at Aventino is a brilliant mix of classic and modern, which gives you a hint to the overall theme. Old world materials such as Tuscan limestone provide a modern minimalism. A soothing green wall balances the starkness of the beautiful stone and cognac leather chairs add warmth. The bar area gets the modern sleek treatment as well, balanced by traditional hanging hams and sausages curing in the salumeria.
The Food
The menu is divided into Classic and Modern. The Beef Carpaccio, from the Classic Side of the menu, arrived sliced to wafer thin perfection with a rustic hunk of parmesan and gorgeous caper berries. A sprinkling of cracked black pepper and the caper and black pepper aoli gave the carpaccio a rich and earthy flavor. Adding a hunk of the parmesan to a slice of the carpaccio contrasted with the previous peppery pieces and yielded a refreshing bite of salt. As a cheese fanatic, I love the option of tearing off a hunk of parmesan rather than the usual treatment of dotting the carpaccio with delicately shaved slices.
On the Modern side of the menu, the Grilled Tuscan Shrimp provided a light and interesting mix of flavors. The walnut, arugula pesto and a grape tomato confit complemented the shrimp which provided a lovely bed of subtle flavors and textures.
The Grilled Asparagus appetizer is also from the Modern menu. The grilled asparagus on the plate were topped with frisee, croutons, quail eggs, slivers of truffled cheese and then drizzled with stone ground mustard. This was a beautiful, delicate dish that provided a different taste sensation depending on what was on your fork. The quail eggs gave a soft flavor especially when contrasted with the mustard. A bite with the truffled cheese provided a creamy texture with a salty, rustic taste that was completely addicting.
The Peppercorn Parpadelle from the Modern Side came with an intriguing almond cream sauce, green asparagus, oyster mushrooms, and shallots. First of all, I loved the homemade parapdelle noodles. I’m glad their sole purpose was to hold onto the thick almond cream sauce. The flavor of the sauce was subtle enough that I could appreciate all the ingredients. Toasted slivered almonds provided the perfect crispy crunch.
The Wild Stripe Bass “Putanesca” from the Modern Side was unavailable with the Wild Bass one night I went, but a Red Snapper was substituted. The modern spin on Italian dishes is nowhere more evident than in this putanesca dish. Aventino’s take on the Putanesca was a deconstruction of this traditional dish. Braised fennel, sliced caper berries, artichokes, carrots, and a precious few shelled mussels topped a small mound of marinara coated angel hair pasta rather than being mixed together. The Red snapper had a slightly spicy and crispy crust and was perfectly prepared.
On another visit, I tried the special of Osso Bucco. You won’t find Osso Bucco too often on menus in Fort Worth, so I was excited to order this featured dish. The generously (but not ridiculous) portioned braised veal shanks came out with fresh fava beans, penne pasta, and a sprinkling of carrots. The veal had a browned crust and was so tender I needed only my fork to cut it. The thick reduction sauce absolutely enhanced the hearty flavor of the veal. I enjoyed the novelty of the fresh fava beans and their crisp texture.
After such fabulous meals, deserts had to be put to the test. The Olive oil cake with a blood orange puree had a slightly dry and crumbly texture that was smooth at the same time. The cake worked well with the blood oranges and mint.
The real surprise came with the Panna Cotta. Served with a Meyer Lemon Gelee and cracked black peppercorns, the panna cotta was raised to a sublime level with the inclusion of marscarpone cheese. The Meyer lemon gelee brightened and cut the richness of the panna cotta. My biggest surprise was how the unexpected choice of cracked black peppercorns to top the desert totally worked.
The drinks deserve to be spotlighted as well. Let’s start off with the water – yes the water. All the water is purified “in house” using a Natura system. Not only does the system provide still water it also produces sparkling water. Aventino is only one of a handful of restaurants in the area that uses this approach.
You could easily drop by Aventino just for a brilliant cocktail and a few appetizers. The Lemongrass martini features tuaca that is infused with lemongrass, shaken with lemon juice and rimmed with a bright and sugary tasting ginger. You’ll find a crisp, exotic flavor from the Hawaiian Lychee Martini thanks to the combination of vodka, fresh lychee juice, and a splash of white wine. The Sangria is a palate and pocketbook pleaser that is just as refreshing as the other cocktails. The profusely minted Mojito gets the Italian treatment with a finish of Prosecco instead of club soda.
Aventino also offers Quartinos. Normally, you will only see these on menus in Italy, so I am excited to see them as an wine option here in Fort Worth. Quartinos are carafes of wine containing 8 oz. Since this is less than a bottle they are priced accordingly. On the recommendation of the waiter we tried the San Lorenzo Verdicchio Classico Di Gino 2005 and enjoyed how it’s slightly fruity notes paired well with our meal. The Quartino also allowed us to enjoy our cocktails without stumbling out of the restaurant.
The Service
On my first visit with friends the waitress was very attentive and expertly guided us to make some great selections, including the panna cotta. On a subsequent visit with my husband we found the service to be a bit more sporadic but still friendly and knowledgeable. At some point you will probably be greeted by Al, the congenial owner. Impress your date by acting like an old friend and he will follow suit by regaling you with stories.
Overall
Aventino gives Fort Worth a completely new version of Italian cuisine. It is a version that ventures further than plastered sunny yellow walls and red check tablecloths. Both the Modern dishes and the Classic Dishes interpret Italian in a deliberate, contemporary way. From the purposefully placed fleur de sel on the red snapper to the freshest tasting water around, there are few details missed at Aventino. After providing classic Italian cuisine for over 25 years this is more than a new chapter for Aventino. It’s a whole new book.
Eat This
Yes! Inspired Central Italian cooking with a fine dining twist comes to Fort Worth.
I Eat This
Osso Bucco and the Putanesca
Hours
Monday – Wednsday 5PM – 10PM
Thursday – Saturday 5PM – 11PM
Aventino
3206 Winthrop Avenue
Fort Worth TX 76116
817.731.0711
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