Nonna Tata on Magnolia Avenue is definitely a draw for the food enthusiast.  Even folks from Dallas have been know to trek over to this small Southside spot to sample the true flavors of northern Italy.  This mini-review is part of the Magnolia Avenue Restaurant Series, read my full review here.

Nonna Tata

The Vibe
Fort Worth is fortunate to have it’s own Italian Grandmother in Nonna Tata.  The small and sunny yellow dining room with rustic tables and stools, maw-maw-ish curtains, and mouthwatering smells coming from the kitchen is what I would imagine a Nonna’s house to be like.

The Food
If you’re looking for or are curious about the real deal Italian food then Nonna Tata is as close as you’re going to get short of jumping on a jet plane direct to Milano.  Nonna Tata  captures the true flavors of Italy.  By that I mean, they take a few simple, selectively sourced ingredients and combine them to make spectacular dishes.

The Service
The waitstaff keep busy for such a small space, so it can be a bit slow at times.  They are knowledgeable about the menu and too busy to hover (yay!).

Eat This
The ever changing menu at Nonna Tata keeps you coming back.  Start with the Antipasti Platter which is a beautiful plate of Italian meats and cheeses.

Enjoy seasonal specialties such as the Pumpkin Soup or Pasta with Butternut Squash.  Order the handmade gnocchi or any other handmade pasta if it’s available.

Finish your meal off with a slice of almond cake or some cioccolata calda (hot chocolate).

Nonna Tata
1400 W. Magnolia Avenue
Fort Worth, TX 76105

UPDATE: Aventino closed January 15, 2010. We wish the Paez Family the best.

The words Cucina, Enoteca, and Salumeria usually are reserved for spots tucked away in the beautiful rolling hills of Tuscany or the moped mobbed streets of Milan.  Fort Worth may not contain all the same charms of Italy, but we can be treated to its wonderful cuisine as interpreted by Chef Derrick Paez at Aventino.  The newly revamped Aventino provides Fort Worth a modern take on Italian cuisine and a cool, chic atmosphere in which to enjoy it.

The Vibe
The decor at Aventino is a brilliant mix of classic and modern, which gives you a hint to the overall theme.  Old world materials such as Tuscan limestone provide a modern minimalism.  A soothing green wall balances the starkness of the beautiful stone and cognac leather chairs add warmth.  The bar area gets the modern sleek treatment as well, balanced by traditional hanging hams and sausages curing in the salumeria.

The Food
The menu is divided into Classic and Modern.  The Beef Carpaccio, from the Classic Side of the menu, arrived sliced to wafer thin perfection with a rustic hunk of parmesan and gorgeous caper berries.  A sprinkling of cracked black pepper and the caper and black pepper aoli gave the carpaccio a rich and earthy flavor.  Adding a hunk of the parmesan to a slice of the carpaccio contrasted with the previous peppery pieces and yielded a refreshing bite of salt.  As a cheese fanatic, I love the option of tearing off a hunk of parmesan rather than the usual treatment of dotting the carpaccio with delicately shaved slices.

On the Modern side of the menu, the Grilled Tuscan Shrimp provided a light and interesting mix of flavors. The walnut, arugula pesto and a grape tomato confit complemented the shrimp which provided a lovely bed of subtle flavors and textures.

The Grilled Asparagus appetizer is also from the Modern menu.  The grilled asparagus on the plate were topped with frisee, croutons, quail eggs, slivers of truffled cheese and then drizzled with stone ground mustard.  This was a beautiful, delicate dish that provided a different taste sensation depending on what was on your fork.  The quail eggs gave a soft flavor especially when contrasted with the mustard.  A bite with the truffled cheese provided a creamy texture with a salty, rustic taste that was completely addicting.

The Peppercorn Parpadelle from the Modern Side came with an intriguing almond cream sauce, green asparagus, oyster mushrooms, and shallots.  First of all, I loved the homemade parapdelle noodles.  I’m glad their sole purpose was to hold onto the thick almond cream sauce.  The flavor of the sauce was subtle enough that I could appreciate all the ingredients.  Toasted slivered almonds provided the perfect crispy crunch.

The Wild Stripe Bass “Putanesca” from the Modern Side was unavailable with the Wild Bass one night I went, but a Red Snapper was substituted.  The modern spin on Italian dishes is nowhere more evident than in this putanesca dish. Aventino’s take on the Putanesca was a deconstruction of this traditional dish.  Braised fennel, sliced caper berries, artichokes, carrots, and a precious few shelled mussels topped a small mound of marinara coated angel hair pasta rather than being mixed together.  The Red snapper had a slightly spicy and crispy crust and was perfectly prepared.

On another visit, I tried the special of Osso Bucco.  You won’t find Osso Bucco too often on menus in Fort Worth, so I was excited to order this featured dish.  The generously (but not ridiculous) portioned braised veal shanks came out with fresh fava beans, penne pasta, and a sprinkling of carrots.  The veal had a browned crust and was so tender I needed only my fork to cut it.  The thick reduction sauce absolutely enhanced the hearty flavor of the veal.  I enjoyed the novelty of the fresh fava beans and their crisp texture.

After such fabulous meals, deserts had to be put to the test.  The Olive oil cake with a blood orange puree had a slightly dry and crumbly texture that was smooth at the same time.  The cake worked well with the blood oranges and mint.

The real surprise came with the Panna Cotta. Served with a Meyer Lemon Gelee and cracked black peppercorns, the panna cotta was raised to a sublime level with the inclusion of marscarpone cheese. The Meyer lemon gelee brightened and cut the richness of the panna cotta. My biggest surprise was how the unexpected choice of cracked black peppercorns to top the desert totally worked.

The drinks deserve to be spotlighted as well.  Let’s start off with the water – yes the water.  All the water is purified “in house” using a Natura system.  Not only does the system provide still water it also produces sparkling water. Aventino is only one of a handful of restaurants in the area that uses this approach.

You could easily drop by Aventino just for a brilliant cocktail and a few appetizers.  The Lemongrass martini features tuaca that is infused with lemongrass, shaken with lemon juice and rimmed with a bright and sugary tasting ginger.  You’ll find a crisp, exotic flavor from the Hawaiian Lychee Martini thanks to the combination of vodka, fresh lychee juice, and a splash of white wine.  The Sangria is a palate and pocketbook pleaser that is just as refreshing as the other cocktails.  The profusely minted Mojito gets the Italian treatment with a finish of Prosecco instead of club soda.

Aventino also offers Quartinos.  Normally, you will only see these on menus in Italy, so I am excited to see them as an wine option here in Fort Worth.  Quartinos are carafes of wine containing 8 oz.  Since this is less than a bottle they are priced accordingly.  On the recommendation of the waiter we tried the San Lorenzo Verdicchio Classico Di Gino 2005 and enjoyed how it’s slightly fruity notes paired well with our meal.  The Quartino also allowed us to enjoy our cocktails without stumbling out of the restaurant.

The Service
On my first visit with friends the waitress was very attentive and expertly guided us to make some great selections, including the panna cotta.  On a subsequent visit with my husband we found the service to be a bit more sporadic but still friendly and knowledgeable.  At some point you will probably be greeted by Al, the congenial owner.  Impress your date by acting like an old friend and he will follow suit by regaling you with stories.

Overall
Aventino gives Fort Worth a completely new version of Italian cuisine.  It is a version that ventures further than plastered sunny yellow walls and red check tablecloths.  Both the Modern dishes and the Classic Dishes interpret Italian in a deliberate, contemporary way.  From the purposefully placed fleur de sel on the red snapper to the freshest tasting water around, there are few details missed at Aventino.  After providing classic Italian cuisine for over 25 years this is more than a new chapter for Aventino.  It’s a whole new book.

Eat This
Yes! Inspired Central Italian cooking with a fine dining twist comes to Fort Worth.

I Eat This
Osso Bucco and the Putanesca

Hours
Monday – Wednsday 5PM – 10PM
Thursday – Saturday 5PM – 11PM

Aventino
3206 Winthrop Avenue
Fort Worth TX 76116
817.731.0711

http://eatthisfortworth.com/?p=79

The Vibe
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again Fort Worth is fortunate to have it’s own Italian Grandmother in Nonna Tata.  The small and sunny yellow dining room with rustic tables, maw-maw-ish curtains, and mouthwatering smells coming from the kitchen is what I would imagine a Nonna’s house to be like.  In fact Nonna Tata is named for owner/chef Donatella Trotti’s Italian grandmother.

Trading chiffon for a chef’s coat, Donatella Trotti opened Nonna Tata over two years ago after working in the fashion industry for Versace.  Without any prior restaurant experience, Nonna Tata initially only opened for lunch but soon stayed open through dinner because of customer demand (I can imagine some begging went on).

Frequent trips back to the northern lake country of Italy where she is from (about every 3-4 months) and daily conversations with her mother help refine her classics and inspire new recipes.  This along with seasonal ingredients account for the ever revolving menu.  These trips also allow her to bring back ingredients from Italy in her suitcase that she uses in the dishes at Nonna Tata (lucky for us!).

Now, I’m by no means describing some undiscovered gem here.  The word has been out among food loving folks in Fort Worth so chances are there will a bit of a wait for a table.  That’s alright, you can bide your time with a little pre-dinner vino in your car, a cocktail at The Chat Room Pub, or mix cultures with a margarita at Benito’s. Here’s a few other things you should know before heading your hungry self over there:

- they are only open Tuesday through Friday and no reservations are taken
- there are only six tables inside and most likely they will be full so you will have to wait
- the staff will take your cell number and call you when your table is ready
- there are tables set up outside which is wonderful when the weather is right
- while you’re waiting you can hit an ATM because they only take cash or checks
- if you’d like wine with your meal, bring your own bottle or two (no corkage fee)
- wine glasses are no longer provided you can bring your own or pay $3 to purchase one of theirs
- phone ahead to make sure they’re open, you never know when Donatella’s taken a jet plane back to Italy
- some folks bring their own tables and set them up outside, this isn’t a problem the waitstaff even have a system and will account for you (if you set up next to table #7, you become table #7 1/2)

The Food
Now onto the food.  Do not expect a pasta plate laden with marinara.  This is not “Americanized” Italian food, not that there’s anything wrong with that, I’m a baked ziti girl myself and pink sauce – love it.  However, if you’re looking for or are curious about the real deal Italian food then Nonna Tata is as close as you’re going to get short of jumping on a jet plane direct to Milano.

On my first trip to Italy I was surprised by the fact that the food tasted NOTHING like I imagined, not a meatball in sight.  The food was beyond fresh and seemed deceptively simple.  In Rome I’ve happily eaten pasta that is topped with only fresh sheep’s milk pecorino romano cheese, fresh ground black pepper (lots), and olive oil (Cacio e Pepe).  I don’t know that the same dish would fly at the neighborhood Italian joint.  That’s what makes Nonna Tata so special – it captures the true flavors of Italy.  By that I mean, they take a few simple, selectively sourced ingredients and combine them to make spectacular dishes.

I’ve eaten at Nonna Tata several times and because of the ever changing menu, I’ve never gotten the same thing twice.  The parmesan dusted spinach gnocchi I got on my first visit was lighter than air and has never made a reappearance.  However, the antipasto plate with a variety of meats and cheeses is always offered and is a great place to start.  There are always a multitude of pasta options, some of which are made with in-house homemade pasta (such as the gnocchi-mmmm).

On my last visit to Nonna Tata my mom came with me for lunch.  The pumpkin soup was sublime with it’s light spicing and creamy, rich subtlety.  The soup also served as good dunking material for the rosemary topped fresh focaccia bread. My mom had a Caesar salad that had a fairly light  dressing which she much preferred to the heavy, mayonnaise-y variety.

We ordered the Pasta con Zucca e Nocciole (Pasta with Butternut Squash and Hazlenuts) and Focaccia Pomodore e Mozzarella (Sandwich with Tomato and Mozzarella).  The butternut squash dotted the pasta like little rays of autumn sunshine and was cooked perfectly – sweet, but still with a little firmness.  Grated parmesan, red onions and brown butter fried sage provided a rich flavor contrast to the mellow sweetness of the squash.  The bits of grated hazelnut throughout the pasta complemented the squash and added a unique nutty flavor.

The sandwich arrived to the table with the focaccia toasted and glistening.  The fresh mozzarella was at the perfect melting point.  Fresh tomato and basil balanced the richness of the mozzarella and the crusty buttery foccacia bread to make this a standout.  I’ll take this version of a sandwich any day.  Potatoes served in a generous helping of olive oil accompanied the sandwich.

Desert seemed too good to pass up, so we decided to split a slice of almond cake with lemon sauce.

Ok, full disclosure here the waitress brought us the cake with a comped cioccolata calda (hot chocolate).  Maybe me taking photos made me look important, who knows?  I gladly took it – and for the record I’ll always accept freebies.  The waitress said that Donatella wanted us to try it and she emphasized that she whips the cream by hand and that she uses a secret recipe for the chocolate itself.  Although I was reading the Star T. the other day and saw that she had indeed shared her recipe, hmmm.  I wouldn’t even bother making it at home though, it’s never going to taste as good as it does whipped up at Nonna Tata.  The whipped cream layer is piled high atop decadently rich hot chocolate – what a way to end a fabulous meal.

Service
Our waitress was adorable and helpful.  She was knowledgeable about the menu and too busy to hover (yay!).  Bonus points for being the deliverer of the freebie cioccolata calda and explaining why it’s so good.

Overall
Nonna Tata satisfies the culinary cravings of anyone that’s been to Italy or has dreams of going.  I taste Italy in every bite and the rustic and charming atmosphere add to the foodie fantasy.  Well worth the wait and the effort to eat here.  The menu is ever changing so repeat visitors will be rewarded with new menu items.  I’m dying to bring my own table some time – where else can you do that?

Eat This
Si! Cinque out of Cinque Panthers.  That’s 5 out of 5 panthers before you bust out your Italian dictionary.  The Fort is lucky to have it’s Nonna!

I Eat This
At lunch a pasta or a sandwich.  Dinner should start with an antipasto then a homemade pasta dish or the special.

Open Tuesday through Friday
11:30AM – 3:30 PM Lunch
5:30PM – 8:30PM Dinner

Prices
Soups
$4.55 – $6.95
Entrees come with side salad and one piece of focaccia (extra .50/piece)
$9.00 and up
Salads
$8.50 – $11.50

Nonna Tata
1400 W. Magnolia Avenue
Fort Worth, TX 76104
(817) 332-0250